Textile Study Collection
Catalog of Household Textiles Group
Cat. # Description Size ________________________________________________________________________________ Deflected Warp Group - Includes Leno and Other Techniques HH-DW 1 Scarf, pale lime & avocado green wool warp, yellow 6" X 70" cotton weft, deflected warp weave in the warp stripes HH-DW 2 Scarf, woven by Hilary Chetwynd; fine dark blue cotton 11.5" X 50" warps with fine supplementary space dyed turquoise through dark blue warps. Doup leno weave, supplementary warps only are deflected. HH-DW 3 Sample, from Hilary Chetwynd. Fine green silk warp, 12" X 10" fine teal silk weft; leno structure, oval patterns; Mounted in cardboard strip with Chetwynd I.D. HH-DW 4 Sample, from Hilary Chetwynd. Fine light blue and brown 7" X 10" warps in warp faced stripes; fine pale ecru weft; leno pattern weave; Mounted in cardboard strip HH-DW 5 Sample, linen(?) white warp, bands of white and brown 7" X 13" weft; alternating float weave; sewing machine stitched so that 6 samples could be cut from it; one is cut out. HH-DW 6 Sample, brown, gold, cream synthetic warps, synthetic 5" X 2.5" gold wefts; section (1) is a twill derivative with gold 3-span wefts; section (2) is an alternating float weave. HH-DW 7 Sample, beige linen, leno. Woven by Fritzi (friend of 4.5" X 6" Anne's). HH-DW 8 Sample, white linen, deflected supplementary warps, 6.5" X 5" no selvages (possibly also woven by Fritzi). ________________________________________________________________________________ Compound Weaves HH-CW 1 Swatch, red, black & grey wool, supplementary weft 4.5" X 5" pattern areas on striped warp face ground; handwritten label "Formosa, Tarjal [?] Tribe" HH-CW 2 Sample, gold and green synthetics, supplementary wefts of 12.5" X 25" jute on a plain weave, warp faced ground, similar pattern to HH-CW 1 HH-CW 3 Sample, same as HH-CW 2, but jute and linen warps, 13" X 29" synthetic fine weft, sisal and multiple stranded linen, supplementary wefts. Exactly same as HH-CW2, slightly different yarns and colors. HH-CW 4 Sample, shades of cream, synthetic yarns and vegetal 6.5" X 8" fibers, rayon supplementary weft floats on tabby ground HH-CW 5 Sample, purple cotton 2-ply warp, yellow vegetal weft, 4.5" X 25" single and 2-ply; studies of compound weaves. End sample is weave of HH-CW 9. HH-CW 6 Hanging, rust linen warp, gold synthetic weft, pattern of 20" X 24" wide parallel diagonal lines reversed in middle, top and bottom borders, 1.75" and 1.5". Double-faced twill; face of fabric 5/1 twill, back side is 2/1 twill. HH-CW 7 Tube, thin rust singles linen warp, thick rust linen and black 3ply wefts; same weave as HH-CW 6, warp selvages sewn together to create tube. Appears to be woven on same warp as HH-CW 6. HH-CW 8 Upholstery sample, alternating beige and green synthetic 8" X 4" warps, gold synthetic warps, gold synthetic weft; tabby ground weave with 3-span weft floats in alternating alignment on face in same color. HH-CW 9 Upholstery sample, alternating beige with green and 9" X 17" brown synthetic warps; brown warp paired with thin red linen singles; thick red singles linen weft; same weave as HH-CW 8. HH-CW 10 Upholstery sample, alternating 2-ply jute and thin yellow 8" X 13" synthetic warps; green and gold synthetic wefts. Three studies: (1) green weft, 2/1 twill; (2) two wefts, green on face, gold on back, alternating 3-span wefts, no tabby; (3) gold on face, green on back, beaten lighter so that warps show, appears to be 50/50 fabric. HH-CW 11 Sample, black, natural and bleached jute, loose 3-ply 10" X 7" warp; 3 ply natural weft; 2/2 twill center section, tabby edges 1/5" wide each; weft floats across the back of tabby areas-spiraling weft? HH-CW 12 Sample, red thick and thin singles linen warp and weft; 7.5" X 12" one section weft is thin only; integrated plain weave. HH-CW 13 Sample, natural jute and yellow 3-ply synthetic warps 18" X 18" alternately threaded; single ply shiny synthetic lime and yellow wefts alternately in tabby; Supplementary 3/1 weft floats offset diagonally of thick single ply vegetal fiber. One end, warps are finished as a rug warp would be for a few inches. HH-CW 14 Upholstery fabric, gold, green, beige, rust warp gold 25" X 44" weft, all synthetic; both warp ends cut, one weft edge cut; integrated weave ________________________________________________________________________________ Interesting Weaves -- The cataloger found something of interest in each of these otherwise unrelated pieces. HH-IW-1 Piece of cut fabric, both warp and weft: alternating 16" X 31" pale blue rayon ribbon and two fine 2-ply slub rayon threads HH-IW-2 Sample, warp: fine, stiff, cream synthetic; weft 2-ply 8.5" X 16" and unspun rayon(?), fine flat metallic thread in first, unspun rayon and metallic tape in upper in tabbey; 3/2 Weft half. HH-IW-3 Fabric scrap, handspun brown wool warp, brown and white 7" X 15" handspun wefts, some of the white wefts float over two, under two, in pattern sequences with tabby. HH-IW-4 Upholstery fabric triangular cut swatch, double weave, 10" X 11" checker-board type pattern, warps: fine 2-ply cotton in rust and bronze green; wefts: thicker 2-ply white cotton and fine 2-ply lime cotton (same type as warp). HH-IW-5A Color and Weave sample, warp and weft are bleached white 7.25" X 6" and natural grey linens, very slubby 5B Color and Weave sample, same warps and wefts as 5A 7.25" X 7" adding copper metalic threads in both. HH-IW-6 Textured yarns sample with areas of weft loops, 6.5" X 7.5" linen warps: fine grey 2-ply, 2-ply medium weight yellow, single-ply thicker yellow green and moss green; linen weft: fine natural grey 2-ply linen, over-twisted (same as that of the warp). Pattern is vertical rows of loops. HH-IW-7 Textured yarns sample with areas of weft loops. 6.5" X 9" Same warps and wefts as IW-6. Pattern is blocks of loops. HH-IW-8 Textured yarns sample with areas of weft loops. 6.5" X 10.5" Same warps and wefts as IW-6. Pattern is horizontal blocks of loops. HH-IW-9 Plain and Basket weaves sample, singles rust linen warp 17" X 16.5" in 2 sizes, thin in plain weave area, thick in basket weave area; weft is two types: natural linen same size as thin rust linen warp for about 3 inches; then a plied cream colored linen, slightly finer for remaining 13 + inches. HH-IW-10 Upholstery fabric, rust vegetal warp; gold synthetic 24" X 28" weft; pattern of basically tabby, with wefts doubled seemingly randomly, at the beginning of vertical columns of weft floats over 3 warps. HH-IW-11 Theo Moorman technique sample, ground weave: plied 12" X 13" white cotton and finer brown linen warps, very fine natural grey linen singles wefts; pattern weft: thicker singles linen in cream, moss green and brown. HH-IW-12 Theo Moorman technique sample, same warp for ground 12" X 12" weave as IW-11; pattern weft: thicker singles linen in yellow and moss green. ________________________________________________________________________________ Plain Weave and More -- Experiments mostly in plain weave, with color and weave, thick and thin yarns, and more. HH-PW-1 Sample, browns & grey, mixed warps: metallic, chenille, 7" X 18" synthetic; various wefts, including raffia and leather. HH-PW-2 Sample for upholstery fabric, several colors of Multiple 9" X 34" Fabric rug yarn, warp face twill. HH-PW-3 Samples, alternating natural single ply jute and thin 7" X 24" yellow 2-plied synthetic or silk warp; various sequences of the thick jute and thin yellow synthetic plus thicker dark green, dark brown or gold synthetic wefts. Half of two vertical sections of the same, wider sampler. HH-PW-4 Other half of HH-PW-3 7" X 24" HH-PW-5 Sample, thin yellow linen warp, thin slub natural linen weft in tabby areas, thick sisal supplementary weft in alternating 3-span floats. ________________________________________________________________________________ Twill Weaves - in traditional and non-traditional fibers, including some color experiments. HH-TW-1 Twill sample, black warp and white weft, cotton 2/2 diamond 5" X 29" twill, reversals staggered, possibly woven for Emery, p.98. ________________________________________________________________________________ Bibliography: Irene Emery, The Primary Structures of Fabrics, 2nd edition (Watson-Guptill Publications, New York, reprinted 1995) Hella Skowronski and Sylvia Tacker, Doup Leno, Shuttle Craft Guild Monograph Thirty-Two, 1980.
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